Top 5 Best Surfing Books To Read In 2022
Are you looking for something to read when the waves are flat?
Surf books are one of the best companions for a surfer when there's no waves. They can help you learn more about surfing, or get inspired, or simply pass the time until the next wave comes.
We’ve listed five of the best surf books for you to check out – from inspiring surf stories to learning more about surfing techniques. You won’t be disappointed with any of these books.
Continue reading to find the best surf book to keep you entertained between sessions!
How We Choose
It's hard to find good books about the surfing world that will inspire you to start paddling out and pump up for the great waves the ocean brings.
Most of the time, when you're looking for a book about surfing, you end up finding one that's just filled with pictures of people riding waves. But, if you're looking for a book that can, teach you how to surf, make you a better surfer, or spin a good yarn, then you'll find something in this list.
We have the perfect solution for you- our list of the best books about surfing. Our team has read through thousands of reviews and star ratings to find the best books that will inspire you and teach you everything tings you may not have known about surfing..
Why Surfer's Are Loving This Book
People love this book because it educates readers on life's highs, lows, hopes, ambitions, and failures through essays and inspirational prose.
It also provided them with instances of faith and purpose so they could manage/deal with issues, and "surf on."
You will change the way you view life after reading The Surfer and the Sage.
It's about two friends, Noah benShea and Shaun Tomson, who have completely different outlooks on life.
The first is a surfer, while the second is a sage. But through their conversations and experiences, they teach each other valuable lessons about how to live a happy, fulfilling life.
The authors take us on a journey of self-discovery, examining what it means to be truly happy.
They show us how to find faith and purpose in our lives, no matter what circumstances we find ourselves in.
And they help us understand that the only way to achieve lasting happiness is to live in the present moment.
With beautiful photography and wise words, The Surfer and The Sage will motivate you to shift your mindset from negative to positive, so you can start living the life you've always dreamed of.
What You Should Know About The Authors
One of the most renowned poet-philosophers in the world, Noah benShea is the author of twenty-seven works that have been translated into eighteen different languages, won the Pulitzer Prize, and is a best-selling author worldwide.
Noah is a researcher and philosopher who has advised commercial and political leaders.
He has also delivered addresses at a number of universities and eminent organizations like the Library of Congress, the World Bible Society in Jerusalem, and the US Department of Defense.
One of the greatest and most influential surfers of all time is Shaun Tomson, a former world champion who was inducted into the US, Jewish, and South African Sports Halls of Fame.
Shaun is also a well-known author, entrepreneur, environmentalist, and leadership mentor.
Why People Love This Book
People love this book because it offers a remarkably well-written, large-format book with images and articles about surfing from the viewpoint of a few dozen or more female surfers.
This title is chock-full of amazing stories about determined and passionate Wahine (surfing women) from all over the world, along with breathtaking photographs of them in action.
You'll love getting to know these inspiring ladies and their unique perspectives on surfer's life.
Not only is this one of the most visually stunning coffee table books around, but it's also incredibly informative.
You'll come away from reading Surf Like a Girl feeling motivated to get out there and hit the waves yourself!
What You Should Know About The Author
Carolina Amell is a graphic designer with more than 20 years of experience designing illustrated nonfiction books.
She is passionate about her work and takes pride in creating quality products.
Carolina has a unique style that combines her artistic talent with her knowledge of the latest design trends.
This makes her books both visually appealing and informative. In addition to her illustrations, Carolina also writes the text for many of her books.
This allows her to ensure that the information in her books is accurate and up-to-date.
Carolina's commitment to her work and her dedication to providing quality information make her an invaluable asset to any publishing team.
Why People Love This Book
People love this book because it appears to be quite essential for society since everyone has a desire for something that makes them happy.
This book is all about the author's unreal tales while surfing and the larger progress of the surfing narrative.
His writing is super powerful and inspiring, making it the perfect read for anyone who loves the ocean and surfing.
He uses good stylistic devices to describe his experiences in the ocean, making you feel like you're right there with him.
You'll be stoked reading about all the waves he catches and moments he's in the barrel.
What You Should Know About The Author
Born and raised on the island of Oahu, Gerry Lopez has been surfing since he was a young boy.
His passion for the sport quickly turned into talent, and by the early 1970s, he was considered one of the best surfers in the world.
He won the prestigious Pipeline Masters competition in 1972 and 1973, solidifying his place as a surfing legend in the surfing community.
In addition to his competitive success, Lopez is also known for his work as a shaper, journalist, and film actor.
Over the years, he has received various honors, including "Waterman of the Year" from SIMA in 1999.
With his unique style and undeniable skill, Gerry Lopez remains one of the most iconic surfers of all time.
Why People Love This Book
People love this book because it is an autobiography of the author's experience as a surfer. It is also packed with gorgeous images and artwork that perfectly depict the surfing lifestyle.
In this book, Author William Finnegan takes readers on a journey around the world to some of the most beautiful and challenging surfing spots.
He writes with such vivid detail that you can almost feel the spray of the water and the wind in your hair.
In addition to being a great storyteller, Finnegan is also an excellent teacher.
He explores the many aspects that influence surfing choices, such as currents, wind direction, wave types, and reefs.
He then goes on to explain various surfing methods and the types of boards that may be used in various situations.
Whether you’re a seasoned surfboarder or someone who’s never even dipped their toe in the water, Barbarian Days are sure to inspire many further surfing exploits.
It’s a fascinating story of one man’s love affair with the sea, and it will leave you eager to experience the exhilaration of riding a big wave for yourself.
What You Should Know About The Author
William Finnegan is a respected staff writer at The New Yorker who has won many awards for his journalism.
He was awarded the Pulitzer Prize for Biography or Autobiography in 2016 for his work "Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life."
Finnegan has also been a finalist for the National Magazine Award two times and has received two John Bartlow Martin Awards for Public Magazine Journalism since 2009.
He has also received two Overseas Press Club honors. His reporting has taken him to many different parts of the world, and he is widely respected for his writing and insights.
Why People Love This Book
People love this book because it offers an inside look at the life and career of one of the best surfers in the world, Kelly Slater.
It is an inspiring story that gives readers a glimpse into the surf culture and what it takes to be a professional surfer.
Kelly Slater is surfing better than ever. Still one of the most competitive athletes in the world, he shows no signs of slowing down.
In For The Love, Slater looks back at his incredible career while also giving readers a glimpse into his life outside of surfing.
Filled with stunning photos from throughout his storied career, For The Love showcases Kelly's immense talent and passion for surfing.
He takes the audience on tour to some of the most fascinating places on earth while sharing his perspectives on politics and the environment.
For The Love is a must-read whether you're a diehard fan or simply someone who loves good surfing history and photography.
Kelly Slater has put together an unforgettable book that provides an intimate look at one of the greatest athletes of our time.
What You Should Know About The Authors
American professional surfer Kelly Slater is regarded as the sport's all-time great.
His achievements are impressive; he holds the record for the most event wins ever and has won the title of world champion 11 times in total, including a record five straight times (1994–98).
Slater made several surfing-related appearances in surf movies, TV shows, and video games while he was not on the world tour.
He became the youngest and the oldest surfer to win the competition in 2011 when he won his 11th world title.
Famous surfing journalist and novelist Phil Jarratt have written several books about the sport.
He has earned the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame Media Award three times and has been designated one of Australia's 50 most influential surfers.
As a lifelong surfer, he started and continues to administer the Noosa Festival of Surfing, which has the most participants worldwide.
Surfing FAQs
Here are the most frequently asked questions about surfing:
What are 3 interesting facts about surfing?
1. The first known surfing was done by Arab traders in the 8th century.
2. Hawaiian kings were some of the earliest avid surfers, and surfing became a popular form of recreation for locals in the 1800s.
3. The first surfing contest took place in Hawaii in 1954 and was won by Duke Kahanamoku.
What are 3 beginner rules to surfing etiquette?
Here are three basic rules of surfing etiquette:
1. Don't drop in on others. This indicates that you shouldn't ride a wave that another person is already riding. It's not only rude, but it can also be dangerous.
2. Be respectful of others around you. This means not spraying them with water when you come up from a ride and giving them room to paddle and catch their own waves.
3. Don’t be a kook. Simply put, avoid doing anything that could harm your reputation or the comfort of those around you. This includes things like not littering, being respectful of the locals, and not heckling other surfers.
What should I know about surfing?
Here are a few things to bear in mind if you're new to surfing:
- Surf with a buddy or a group. It's safer and more fun that way.
- Learn how to surf safely. There are many sources on the internet and at local surfing schools.
-Even if the waves are tiny, wear a life jacket when surfing in open water. You might fall off your board at any time.
- Respect the waves and never try to surf in areas where it's not safe to do so.
-Have fun and be cautious! If you're not careful, surfing may be hazardous.
What should you not do while surfing?
Don't surf when there's too much wind. Don't try to surf huge waves if you're a beginner. And finally, don't surf alone.
What are the benefits of surfing?
- surfing can improve your balance and coordination
- surfing can help strengthen your core muscles
- surfing can give you a great cardio workout
- surfing can help improve your flexibility
- surfing can connect you with nature
- surfing can be a great way to relax and destress
When should you not surf?
If you're injured, pregnant, or have a heart condition, you should definitely not surf. It's also important to avoid surfing in thunderstorms and during high tides, as these can be dangerous conditions.
What are the risks of surfing?
There are a few risks to consider when surfing:
-You could get stung by a jellyfish or Stingray. This is not deadly, but it could be very painful.
-You could get knocked unconscious if you wipe out and hit your head on the water or on your surfboard.
-You could drown if you are not a strong swimmer and get pulled into a current.
-You may get sunburned if you spend too much time in the sun without coverage.
-You could get cut by your surfboard or by coral if you fall on it.
How do surfers avoid each other?
Most of the time, surfers are able to avoid each other by staying aware of their surroundings and being careful not to drop in on another surfer's wave.
What is the best time to surf?
The ideal time to surf is generally when the tide is coming in, with a mild swell. This combination will often produce glassy, waist-high waves that are perfect for surfing.
Can you surf if you can't swim?
Yes, you can surf if you can't swim! There are plenty of beginner-friendly surf spots around the world where the water is shallow, and the waves aren't too big.
What is the hardest part of surfing?
The hardest part of surfing is undoubtedly the anticipation. The moment you first paddle out beyond the breaking waves, you're filled with a cocktail of emotions - excitement, trepidation, nervousness.
Is it safe to surf in the rain?
Yes, it is safe to surf in the rain. The main danger while surfing in the rain is lightning. If you get trapped in a storm with lightning, get out of the water and find shelter.
What is the most common injury in surfing?
The most common injury in surfing is likely to be a minor cut or scrape since surfers are constantly in contact with the sharp reef or ocean floor.
What to do when a wave breaks on you?
When a wave breaks on you, the best thing to do is tuck your head down and protect your face with your arms. Try to stay calm and wait for the next wave to come in and carry you back out to sea.
At what age should you start surfing?
Most experts agree that children as young as five or six can start learning to surf, so long as they receive proper instruction and supervision.
How long does it take to surf?
It takes an hour on average for a normal person to surf, but if you're a novice, you might want to start with a shorter session.
How big do waves need to be to surf?
The general rule of thumb is that the waves need to be at least waist-high in order to surf. However, this depends on your experience level and comfort in the water.
How deep is the water for surfing?
Most surfing waves are between 3 and 6 feet deep, with the average being around 4.5 feet.
At what depth do waves break?
Waves break when the depth of the water is about one-half their height. For example, if a wave is six feet high, it will break when the water depth reaches three feet.
What are the best surfing books?
Now that you know all about surfing, you're probably wondering what the best surfing books are. Here are our top three picks:
-The Surfboard by George Orr: This classic surf book covers everything from wave types to board design.
-Swell A Sailing Surfer's Voyage of Awakening Liz Clark: This book is part memoir, part surf travelogue. It chronicles Clark's journey from California to the South Pacific in search of the perfect wave.
How do you catch a wave?
Catching a wave is all about timing and positioning. You need to be in the right spot and then paddle as hard as you can when you see the wave start to break.
Is Soul Surfer a true story?
Yes, the film Soul Surfer is based on a real event. Bethany Hamilton is the main character in the movie, a young surfer who lost her arm in a shark attack. Despite this, she was able to continue surfing and eventually became an elite surfer.
How difficult is surfing?
It's not as difficult as some people make it out to be. Sure, it takes a lot of practice and skill to become a good surfer, but anyone can learn the basics with time and patience.
What is surf odyssey?
A surf odyssey presents a phrase that is used to describe an extended journey or adventure, usually involving surfing. The term can be used to describe both real and fictional adventures.
Is Huntington Beach good for surfing?
Yes, Huntington Beach is definitely a great place to go surfing! The waves here are amazing, and the weather is perfect for spending time in the water.
What time of day is best to surf?
The best time of day to surf is usually determined by the tides. You'll want to check the tide charts to figure out when the best time is to catch a wave.
If you're surfing at a point break (a coastline where waves break over a rocky reef or point), then it's usually best to surf during high tide when the waves are larger.
Best Surfing Books For You?
Surfing brings a different vibe, especially while paddling out in the water and bracing yourself to go against the waves. It presents an unfathomable joy of being out in the sun, lulling yourself in the water, and that triumphant feeling of being able to hold your board while you are above the waves.
These surfing books we have listed best describe these feelings and will make you want to get in the water as soon as you can. It is inspirational surf history and action-packed, but most of all, it is full of lessons in surfing and in life.
Pick the one that best suits your interest, or read all 5 for a varied experience and overview of the topic of surfing.
Our personal favorite is “Surf is Where You Find It,” as it does not only talk about surfing but gives us a lot of life lessons that both surfers and non-surfers can learn from. Click here to check it out now on Amazon.
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